Traveling to Pakistan is, in itself, an adventure off the beaten path. But when your destination is Peshawar, located in the north of the country and just a few kilometers from the Afghan border, the experience hits a whole new level. Recently, I lived through something I never imagined: I needed a full-time armed police escort just to walk the streets and explore the secrets of this millennial city.
In this article, I will detail what it feels like to be watched over by AK-47 rifles, the legendary hospitality of the Pashtun people, and why Peshawar is one of the most fascinating (and intense) places I have ever visited in my life as a traveler. Or watch my full Peshawar exploration:
The Reality Check: Why Did I Need an Escort?
As soon as we arrived in Peshawar from Lahore, we realized the rules of the game had changed. The hotel where we stayed—a bargain at $5 a night, yet surprisingly decent—gave us a clear warning: foreigners are not allowed to walk the streets without official protection.
The situation was particularly tense due to an attack in Islamabad that very day. In Peshawar, the proximity to the Afghan border means the Pakistani government takes zero risks with tourists. The result? Three armed guards waiting for us at the hotel door every morning.
Initially, the feeling is uncomfortable. You feel like a target, drawing unnecessary attention. However, over time, the ice breaks. I discovered that those men in uniform were, above all, incredible human beings. One of them was a huge fan of Brazilian football and knew the names of almost all our players. From “security guards,” they quickly became our friends and guides.
The Afghan Consulate and the White Flag
Our main reason for being in Peshawar was bureaucratic: we needed to get a visa to enter Afghanistan by land (though, in the end, the border closed and we had to fly).
Entering the consulate was a surreal experience. Being a high-security area, we had to leave cameras and phones outside. Seeing the white flag of the current Afghan government and interacting with the officials there carries a historical weight that is hard to describe. To our surprise, the process was swift, and we walked out with a brand-new visa—a model that had only been in existence for three days.
The Gun Factory: Peshawar’s Unusual Side
One of the most bizarre and interesting stops on our tour was a gun factory. In Peshawar, arms production is a regulated and very present industry. We visited Sultan Arms, where we were welcomed with traditional Pakistani tea (chai) and immense hospitality.
There, we spoke with an engineer who was about to move to Brazil—specifically to Pelotas, in Rio Grande do Sul—to pursue a PhD in biomedical sensors. It was a fantastic “small world” moment! I took the chance to give him safety tips for Brazil, while he explained the quality of Serbian weapons and the famous Glocks they produce there.
Exploring the Old City: 2,500 Years of History
Peshawar isn’t just about the military and weapons; it is one of the oldest cities in South Asia, with over 2,500 years of history. Walking through the old center, known as Kissa Khwani Bazaar (the Street of Storytellers), is like stepping back in time.
Some of the highlights we managed to visit (always with the police clearing traffic using sirens) were:
- Cunningham Clock Tower: Built in 1900 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.
- Gor Khatri Complex: A fascinating archaeological site containing 13 layers of different civilizations, from the Greeks and Buddhists to the British.
- Hindu Temple: We visited a sacred Hindu temple located right next to a mosque, showing that despite political tensions, Peshawar’s religious history is diverse and resilient.
Gastronomy: The Fire of the Biryani
Our escort took us to lunch to try traditional Peshawari Biryani. The dish is a delicious mix of rice, chicken, and potatoes, but with one catch: the spice level is insane! Even after asking for “no spice,” my eyes watered.
A curious detail about lunch: we were placed in a separate small room, closed off by a curtain. In Pakistan, this is common to provide privacy for women (in Nick’s case) or for security, ensuring tourists aren’t “exposed” to the street for too long while eating.
The Buses of Peshawar: Rolling Works of Art
To end the day on a high note, we visited a bus decoration workshop. In Pakistan, buses are practically carnival floats. They are hand-painted, covered in lights, chandeliers, and metal details that glow at night. It’s an explosion of colors that looks like a moving nightclub. Meeting the artisans behind these machines was one of the most authentic parts of the trip.
Is Peshawar Worth Visiting?
Peshawar is not for everyone. It is loud, militarized, and can be intimidating. However, the hospitality of the local people is unmatched. They told us several times: “You are our guests; it is our duty to protect you.”
Although we didn’t have the freedom to explore alone as we would have liked, the experience of seeing the world through the eyes of the police officers who live that reality daily was priceless. We left with WhatsApp contacts full of new Pakistani friends and a much deeper understanding of the complexity and beauty of this region.
If you seek comfort and predictability, stay home. But if you seek living history and real human connections in unlikely places, Peshawar needs to be on your list.
