Traveling to Afghanistan is, without a doubt, the ultimate way to step out of your comfort zone. I’ve just spent two weeks exploring this country—often called the “Graveyard of Empires”—and I must confess, the experience was vastly different from anything I had imagined. Between pitch-black capitals, encounters with the Taliban (or “the TB,” as we call them there), and unexpected hospitality, I’ve put together everything you need to know to plan this expedition with safety and awareness.
If you’re looking for a destination that blends deep geopolitics, rugged landscapes, and intense culture shock, Afghanistan is the place. But be warned: this is no ordinary trip. It requires meticulous planning, patience, and, above all, respect for local rules.
Or watch my full video about how to travel to Afghanistan:
The Visa Challenge: How to Enter Afghanistan
My journey began even before I set foot on Afghan soil. I initially tried to cross the border by land from Pakistan, but due to recent border skirmishes, the land crossing was closed. The solution? Flying from Islamabad to Kabul via Kam Air, the country’s main airline.
The visa process was an experience in itself. I secured mine in Peshawar, Pakistan. The consulate is strategically located right across from a Pakistani Air Force base—a high-security zone where you must surrender your phone and cameras at the entrance. The visa I received was a new model, issued just days prior by the current government. Seeing that white TB flag on the document certainly sends a chill down your spine, but the process was surprisingly efficient.
Pro Tip: Always check border status in real-time. What’s open today might close tomorrow due to diplomatic or security shifts.
Arriving in Kabul: First Impressions and Safety
Landing in Kabul feels like entering another dimension. The first thing you notice when walking the streets at night is the total lack of public lighting. Large swaths of the city remain in total darkness, except for a few restaurants and commercial buildings running their own generators.
Security is the topic that worries travelers most. Walking down pitch-black streets in Brazil would be unthinkable for me, but in Kabul, the sense of security against common crime is, curiously, higher. Why? Because the TB’s punishments are severe, and everyone knows it. Locals are very hesitant to commit crimes against foreigners.
However, the biggest “nuisance” I faced was persistent street children. They are clever and use distraction tactics, like trying to sell you flowers, to attempt to open your bag or ask for money. My partner, Nick, almost had her bag taken by a group of girls. The local advice is to be firm and, as a last resort, mention you’ll call the Taliban—the kids vanish instantly.
Where to Stay: The Magic of Guest Houses and Hostels
Many foreigners opt for fortified luxury hotels like the famous Hotel Kiber, but I prefer the authenticity (and the price tag) of guest houses and hostels. We stayed in a private room in a hostel that was our absolute lifeline in Kabul.
Staying in a place focused on backpackers is essential in Afghanistan because of the support. The hostel manager became our consultant for everything: from where to exchange money and get a local SIM card, to how to obtain the necessary travel permits for other provinces like Herat, Kandahar, and Mazar-e Sharif.
Additionally, since the power goes out constantly, look for places with solar panels and batteries. Having a hot shower and light to charge your gear makes all the difference when the entire city goes dark.
Money and Internet: Surviving Connected
Forget the convenience of credit cards in shops. Afghanistan is a cash-only country (Afghani). However, we had a positive surprise: we managed to withdraw cash from an ATM in Kabul using a standard international card. The ATM was guarded by two heavily armed men who were extremely friendly and helped us through the process.
As for the internet, don’t expect high speeds. We bought a local SIM card with the help of the hostel staff. The process requires documentation and patience, but it’s fundamental for navigation. Keep in mind that in remote areas, the connection is almost non-existent.
Women in Afghanistan: What Has Changed?
This is the most complex part of the trip. The situation for women, especially locals, is highly restricted under the current regime. For female travelers, wearing a hijab (headscarf) and very modest clothing that does not define the body is mandatory.
A key point: foreign women are not allowed in gyms or certain public spaces designated only for men. Unlike Pakistan, where there are sometimes alternating hours, the ban in Afghanistan is currently a government mandate and absolute. It’s a necessary cultural shock to understand if you decide to visit.
Exploration and Logistics: Do I Need a Guide?
As of November 2025 (the date of my last update), a guide was not strictly mandatory to enter the country. We met travelers who arrived alone and handled all the paperwork and permits themselves.
However, to optimize your time and avoid issues with local authorities at the numerous security checkpoints, I strongly recommend hiring a local guide or organizing tours through your hostel. They know how to speak to the guards and ensure your travel permits between provinces are always in order.
Geopolitics in the “Graveyard of Empires”
Traveling through Afghanistan is like a live history lesson. We drove on excellent highways built by the former international coalition, contrasting with areas of absolute desert where there is nothing. Understanding the context of the Soviet invasion (the “Soviet Union’s Vietnam”), the post-9/11 American occupation, and the return of the Taliban is what gives the experience depth.
The country is trying to rebuild amidst sanctions and isolation. Seeing the flag of the current regime alongside remnants of the American presence is a constant visual irony.
Essential Tips for Your Trip
- Travel Insurance: Almost no standard insurance covers conflict zones or countries under travel warnings. Look for specialized high-risk area insurance.
- Travel Permits: Every time you leave Kabul for another province, you will need an official permit. The process takes time and requires copies of your passport and visa.
- Local Respect: Afghanistan is deeply conservative. Follow dress codes and avoid photographing military infrastructure or government members without express authorization.
- Hydration and Health: Tap water is not potable. Stick to bottled water and bring a comprehensive first-aid kit.
- Hot Showers: In many guest houses, you need to notify the manager an hour in advance so they can turn on the water heater.
Conclusion: Is it Worth Visiting Afghanistan?
If you are looking for a trip that will transform you and expand your worldview, the answer is yes. Afghanistan is not just a place of war and conflict; it is a country of resilient people, dramatic landscapes, and an ancient culture that has outlasted every empire that tried to dominate it.
Stepping out of your comfort zone here is literal. It is a journey of humility and learning. Just don’t be like me: plan your schedule, arrive early, and be prepared for the unexpected.
