Traveling to Afghanistan is, in itself, an act of extreme courage and curiosity. But traveling there without a guide, exploring cities independently, takes the concept of “leaving your comfort zone” to a whole new level. After passing through Kabul and Bamiyan, our next destination was Herat, a city in the northwest known as the most liberal and progressive stronghold in Afghan lands.
But what does “liberal” actually mean in a country governed by the Taliban? In this article, I’ll share our real experience—complete with the struggles, cultural shocks, and hidden beauties—of exploring Herat on our own. Or watch my full video about Herat:
The Challenge of Getting to Herat: Flying Ariana Afghan Airlines
Our journey began at the Kabul airport. To reach Herat, we opted for Ariana Afghan Airlines, the national carrier. A curious detail? The plane still displayed the flag of the former government, a sharp visual contrast to the country’s current political reality.
If you’re expecting the luxury of neighboring Arab airlines, forget it. We flew on a classic Boeing 737-400—the kind aviation enthusiasts love, but one that certainly shows its age. Logistics at Afghan airports are an experience of their own: at one point, we were put on a bus to travel literally 10 meters to the plane’s stairs. Yes, a 7-second commute! We laughed so we wouldn’t cry, but it’s all part of the local daily life.
Herat: First Impressions and the “Liberal City” Stigma
The moment we set foot in Herat, the atmosphere shifted. Unlike Kabul, here we saw the famous tuk-tuks (motorized rickshaws) dominating the traffic, giving the city a more dynamic and chaotic feel, reminiscent of parts of Central and South Asia.
But let’s get to the main point: is Herat liberal? Well, everything in Afghanistan must be read with “heavy quotation marks.” Herat is historically a cultural, intellectual, and artistic hub. Its proximity to the Iranian border influences the language (the Dari dialect here is very close to the Farsi spoken in Tehran) and customs. Although the current government’s rules are strictly applied, there is a slight openness in how foreigners are treated and a level of sophistication that other provinces lack.
What to Visit in Herat: Living and Ancient History
1. The Citadel of Herat (Qala Iktyaruddin)
Originally built by Alexander the Great around 330 BC, this fortress is the heart of the city. It has been destroyed and rebuilt countless times over the millennia. What we see today is the result of a major restoration completed between 2006 and 2011.
Walking along its ramparts offers a panoramic view of the city and helps one understand why Afghanistan is called the “Graveyard of Empires.” From up there, you can see the contrast between solar panels (essential for local energy survival) and the ruins of historical neighborhoods still waiting to be rebuilt.
2. The Herat Bazaar
Located right next to the citadel, the bazaar is a journey back in time. Forget modern shopping malls; here, it’s all about mud bricks, classic Islamic architecture, and corridors selling everything from raw cotton to authentic Persian rugs. It’s the perfect place to feel the city’s pulse, though as a tourist, you will undoubtedly be the center of attention.
3. The Jihad Museum (War Museum)
For those interested in geopolitics, Herat houses a museum dedicated to the resistance against the Soviet invasion. Seeing old USSR helicopters and tanks abandoned in the Afghan desert up close is a vivid reminder of the scars this country still bears.
The Reality for Women: Nick’s Experience
Traveling as a woman in Afghanistan requires constant adaptation. Nick had to wear the abaya and hijab at all times, ensuring her neck and hair were covered to avoid issues with the “moral police”—men dressed in white who patrol the streets monitoring customs.
An interesting note about Herat is that it used to offer exclusive tours for women, something rare in the rest of the country. However, visibility remains a challenge. Eating on the street, for instance, is something you almost never see local women doing, which creates a certain level of discomfort for those used to Western freedoms.
Practical Tips for Those Wishing to Visit Afghanistan
If you are an experienced traveler considering this destination, here are some golden tips we learned the hard way:
- Accommodation: Don’t expect to find hotels on Booking or Airbnb easily. Most places work by word-of-mouth or recommendation. In Herat, we secured a room for about $28—a fair price by local standards, but far from a luxury resort.
- Negotiation is Law: From taxis to hotels, everything must be negotiated. At the airport, they tried to charge 500 Afghanis for a taxi; we settled on 400. Be firm but conscious: often the price difference is minimal for you, but it’s a family’s livelihood for them.
- Safety and Respect: When encountering members of the de facto government, be cordial. It is not the time for heated political debates. “Playing the game” and showing respect for the local culture is fundamental to your safety.
- Google Translate: Without it, communication would be nearly impossible. English proficiency outside major hubs is low, and the translator helps with everything from ordering dinner to negotiating your stay.
Afghan Hospitality: The Side the Media Doesn’t Show
What marked us most in Herat wasn’t the monuments, but the people. We were approached by locals who were genuinely happy to see tourists in their country. We met a young Afghan woman who had lived in Iran and shared her love for the culture and food of her homeland despite the obvious hardships.
Often, in restaurants, owners would try not to charge us for the meal. They have an ancient custom of treating the visitor as an honored guest. Of course, we insisted on paying, knowing the economic situation is delicate, but this gesture demonstrates the generous soul that persists within the Afghan people.
Is Herat Worth Visiting?
Herat is a city of contrasts. It is where the millennial past of Alexander the Great meets the austere reality of the present. If you seek a travel experience that changes your perspective on the world, Afghanistan—and Herat specifically—is a destination like no other.
Is it an uncomfortable trip? Yes. Is it safe? It depends on your ability to read the room and respect the current rules. But it is, without a doubt, one of the most authentic and raw experiences you can have on the planet today.
