Have you ever wondered what life is like in one of the most closed-off places in the world? Recently, my wife Nikki and I decided to break all barriers of the obvious and dive into a journey that many would consider madness: crossing Afghanistan. Today, I want to take you with me to the north of the country, specifically to the mystical Mazar-i-Sharif and the historic Balkh.
Forget what you only see on the evening news. What we found was a mix of ancient history, surprising flavors, and a geopolitical reality that defies any simple understanding. Get ready, because traveling through the “Graveyard of Empires” is an experience that changes your soul and your palate.
Or watch our full video about Mazar-i-Sharif on Youtube:
Balkh: A 3,000-Year Journey Back in Time
Our journey began in Balkh, located about an hour from Mazar-i-Sharif. Imagine walking through a place that was once the center of the world long before many modern empires even dreamed of existing. Balkh has over 3,000 years of history and was a hub for Zoroastrianism and Buddhism before the arrival of Islam.
Unlike any tourist spot in Europe, you won’t find queues or souvenir vendors here. We were practically the only visitors. The absolute highlight was the Noh Gonbad Mosque (or the Mosque of Nine Domes), one of the oldest in the world.
Pro Tip: When visiting historical sites in Afghanistan, be prepared for bureaucracy. You will need special permits from the local tourism department (now under Taliban control). In our case, the head of the secretariat himself decided to accompany us, which made the experience even more… intense.
The Blue Mosque: The Pulsing Heart of Mazar-i-Sharif
Back in Mazar-i-Sharif, we were greeted by the mesmerizing sight of the Blue Mosque (Shrine of Hazrat Ali). If there is a place that defines the word “spectacular,” this is it. The blue and green tiles, with intricate geometric patterns, shine under the sun in a way that cameras can hardly capture.
But it’s not all silent contemplation. Recently, the region was hit by an earthquake, and we could see the restoration efforts firsthand. Additionally, the social dynamic is a reality check. As a woman, Nikki had a different experience than mine; restrictions are severe, and at many moments, she was the only visible foreign woman in the complex.
The Sweet Side of Mazar: Ice Cream and Pomegranate Juice
If you think Afghan gastronomy is limited to bread and meat, you are very mistaken. One of the most memorable moments of the day was tasting Sheer Yakh, the famous traditional ice cream of Mazar-i-Sharif.
It is made with pistachio, cardamom, and a dense texture that feels almost like frozen caramel. We went to the most famous ice cream parlor in town, and their “medium” size is, honestly, a full meal!
Another mandatory stop is the street stalls to drink fresh pomegranate juice. Afghanistan’s pomegranates are famous for being the best in the world, and watching them squeeze the fruit on the spot, with 그vibrant red color, is an invitation to freshness amidst the dust of the trip.
Gym in Afghanistan: Training with the Locals
One of the things I love to do most on my travels is maintain a routine, and that includes bodybuilding. I went to a local gym in Mazar-i-Sharif, and the reception was fantastic.
The atmosphere was one of total camaraderie. While we shared the machines, we talked about football (the name Vinícius Júnior is an immediate passport to friendship!) and daily life. It is in these moments, away from the monuments, that we realize the Afghan people are extremely hospitable and curious about the outside world.
Important for women travelers: Finding women’s gyms is a giant challenge under the current regime. However, some hotels maintain small private structures where women can train away from the public eye. Always research and ask discreetly.
Is Traveling to Afghanistan Safe?
This is the question I receive the most. Security in Afghanistan is a double-edged sword. On one hand, large-scale armed conflict has significantly decreased, allowing travel on roads that were impassable five years ago. On the other hand, you are in a country governed by the Taliban, with strict rules and a constant armed presence.
We walked at night through Mazar-i-Sharif and felt calm, but we never let our guard down. Communication can be difficult, and having a local guide is essential—not just for the language, but to understand the nuances of where you can or cannot film.
Essential Tips for Your Trip to Afghanistan
If you are an experienced traveler and are considering this destination, here are some crucial points:
- Visas and Permits: The process is complex and changes constantly. Obtain your visa in embassies such as those in Islamabad or Dubai and, upon arriving in each province, register at the tourism department.
- Clothing: Absolute respect for the local culture. Men should avoid shorts; women must wear the hijab and loose clothing that covers the entire body.
- Connectivity: Buy a local SIM card (such as Roshan or Afghan Wireless). Hotel Wi-Fi is usually unstable.
- Respect Above All: You will have to interact with members of the Taliban. Stay calm, be polite, and follow safety guidelines.
Is Mazar-i-Sharif Worth Visiting?
Mazar-i-Sharif is an oasis of color and history in a country still trying to find its way. The beauty of the Blue Mosque and the hospitality of the people in the streets outweigh the logistical challenges. It is a destination for those who want to understand geopolitics in practice, far from the filtered lenses of the West.
Traveling “out of your comfort zone” is exactly that: confronting your prejudices and discovering that, behind complex regimes, there are ordinary people wanting to share an ice cream and talk about football.
