When we think of traveling to tropical island paradises in the Indian Ocean, our minds immediately fly to ultra-luxury resorts in the Maldives, the sophisticated charm of Seychelles, or the well-organized beaches of Mauritius. However, tucked between the East African coast and northern Madagascar lies a tiny archipelago that remains virtually invisible to global tourism: the Comoro Islands (or the Union of the Comoros).
As a passionate traveler drawn to off-the-beaten-path destinations, I decided to venture into this mysterious, fascinating, and wildly challenging island nation. Comoros is a vibrant blend of Swahili-Arab culture, African roots, and French colonial heritage, where 98% of the population practices Islam. But don’t let postcard-worthy photos of turquoise waters fool you: traveling here is a deep dive into a raw reality shaped by historic political instability, a chronic lack of infrastructure, fuel shortages, and logistical chaos that will test your limits.
In this complete and honest field guide, I will share in detail what it’s like to explore the main island of Grande Comore, the historic former capital of Iconi, the current capital Moroni, and all the practical tips you need to know before packing your bags for Africa’s forgotten nation.
Or watch my experience on Youtube:
Why Visit the Comoro Islands and What to Expect Upon Arrival
If you are looking for an easy vacation, all-inclusive resorts, and Western-style hospitality, I’ll tell you upfront: Comoros is not for you. The country receives a negligible number of visitors every year, and the vast majority of people arriving at the airport are diplomats, aid workers, or UN personnel.
This lack of mass tourism is a double-edged sword. On one hand, you get the magical experience of wandering through centuries-old medinas and deserted beaches without encountering a single other tourist. On the other hand, infrastructure is extremely basic, transportation costs are disproportionately high, and the immigration process can feel intimidating.
Arrival Hurdles and Strict Immigration
Getting to Comoros is the first challenge of the trip. The most cost-effective way to fly to the archipelago is from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. However, even for a flight under two hours, regional tickets usually cost over $400—a steep price for such a short hop.
Upon landing at the international airport on Grande Comore Island (located about an hour outside the capital city of Moroni), prepare for a meticulous immigration check. Border officers conduct thorough questioning about your itinerary, where you are staying, and who your local contact is.
If you book accommodation through platforms like Airbnb, be prepared to explain further. Officers are often unfamiliar with the concept of the platform and may insist on calling your host directly before stamping your passport. Additionally, there is a curious inconsistency regarding visa fees on arrival: while the official rate fluctuates between €30 and €50, it is not uncommon for different passengers on the same flight to be charged different amounts.
- Geopolitical Fact: The immigration’s extreme vigilance has a clear background. Comoros is frequently used as a transit route for migrants from the African Great Lakes region trying to reach the nearby island of Mayotte—a French overseas department. Because French authorities maintain tight security at the local airport to prevent illegal crossings, Comorian immigration strictly vets incoming travelers to avoid stranded visitors.
Transportation and Car Rentals: The Saga of Roads and Fuel
One of the most important decisions when planning a trip around Grande Comore is how to get around. Public transportation is virtually non-existent by tourist standards, consisting mainly of overcrowded local minivans.
The alternative for most travelers is hiring a private driver (chaperon) or a daily taxi, which can easily cost between €100 and €150 per day. In my case, I chose to rent a car to drive independently around the island—a choice that even surprised immigration officers, as tourists rarely drive themselves here.
Rough Roads and Chinese Infrastructure
Driving in Comoros requires endless patience. The main ring road around the island (RN1) alternates between decent paved segments and long stretches of dirt, deep mud, massive potholes, and rusted car frames abandoned along the roadside. If you plan to explore the northern part of the island, prepare to move at a crawl and constantly evaluate whether it’s worth risking your rental car’s suspension.
Amidst this crumbling infrastructure, China’s strong geopolitical presence is hard to miss. While Western countries and the European Union focus their aid on education and social projects, Chinese companies are actively paving roads, building solar power plants, and expanding airport infrastructure. It is a clear instance of infrastructure investments in exchange for diplomatic influence in Africa, but practically speaking, it is the sole reason some paved roads exist on the island.
The Chaos of Fuel Shortages
During my stay, I faced every driver’s nightmare: a widespread gasoline shortage. Miles-long queues of cars and plastic jerrycans wrapped around gas stations across the island, accompanied by stressed drivers and police managing heated arguments.
This fuel crisis (heightened by geopolitical tensions in the Middle East and the Strait of Hormuz) affected more than just traffic; it impacted the country’s food supply. Because artisanal tuna fishing is the primary source of protein for locals, the lack of fuel for fishing boats created immediate social tension.
Exploring Iconi: The Former Capital and Its Abandoned Palaces
If there is one place that encapsulates the historical atmosphere and neglect of Comoros, it is the town of Iconi. Located just south of Moroni, Iconi served as the ancient capital of Grande Comore between the 10th and 19th centuries, acting as a prominent commercial and religious hub for the Sultanate of Bambao.
Walking through Iconi feels like stepping back in time, but without any tourist filters. Unlike Zanzibar in nearby Tanzania, where Arab architecture has been heavily restored into boutique hotels and souvenir shops, Iconi’s history remains raw, untouched, and largely forgotten.
The Hidden Gems of Iconi
- The Abandoned Sultan’s Palace: One of the most striking landmarks in town is the ancient sultan’s palace. Situated right on the waterfront, the building stands completely abandoned—free of doors, ticket booths, or preservation efforts. You can walk freely through its ruins, admire the Swahili-style stone arches, and watch ocean waves crash right behind the walls.
- The Ancient Medina: The narrow alleys of Iconi’s medina preserve original centuries-old architecture. Intricately carved wooden doors featuring Arabic inscriptions—identical to those found in Zanzibar and Oman—adorn local homes. The best part is the interaction with residents: with zero commercial harassment, people greet you with genuine warmth, exchanging friendly greetings in French or Arabic.
- The Historical Council Gathering Spot: In the heart of the medina lies the ancient religious and political gathering space from the 15th and 16th centuries, where community leaders once met to make decisions for the sultanate.
The only heartbreaking contrast in Iconi—and across the island—is the sheer amount of plastic waste dumped along the cliffs and surrounding historical sites. In a country struggling with basic needs at the base of the social pyramid, environmental awareness and proper waste management naturally take a backseat.
Northern Attractions: Beaches, Legends, and Course Corrections
The route toward northern Grande Comore offers stunning scenery, but it requires physical and mental resilience to tackle the secondary roads.
Mitsamiouli Beach
Mitsamiouli Beach is one of the most famous coastal spots in the north. Protected by a natural coral reef, it offers a wide strip of white sand and calm waters. However, keep in mind that you are in a conservative Muslim country.
The vast majority of local women frequent the beach fully dressed in traditional attire (abaya and hijab). Wearing a standard bikini can attract unwanted attention or disapproval. If you plan on swimming, wearing modest swimwear or lightweight clothes over your swimsuit is recommended out of respect for local customs.
The “Trou du Prophète” (Prophet’s Hole)
Near the northern coast lies the scenic bay known as Trou du Prophète (The Prophet’s Hole). Popular local legend claims that the Prophet Muhammad landed at this cove. However, local historians clarify that this was a misunderstanding by French colonizers: in reality, the bay served as a maritime shelter for a visiting Sultan of Oman.
At high tide, the bay fills with vibrant turquoise water, framed by lush greenery, a small eco-lodge, a restaurant, and a diving center. It is one of the few spots on the island with welcoming facilities, where you can chat with locals about the production of artisanal vanilla and ylang-ylang essential oils.
The Salt Lake Dilemma and the Dragon’s Backbone
Other notable landmarks in the north include the Salt Lake (a volcanic crater filled with saltwater) and the striking rock formations of the Dragon’s Backbone.
However, depending on road conditions, reaching these sites can turn into an ordeal. After driving miles over rough dirt tracks filled with deep craters and worrying about damaging my rental car far from any help, I made the tough call to skip the Salt Lake. In independent travel, knowing when to pivot is essential to avoid major headaches on the road.
Moroni: What Is the Capital of Comoros Like?
The capital city, Moroni, is the economic and political center of the country, though it looks far from a modern metropolis. Operating at a relaxed pace with occasionally chaotic traffic, the city features small markets, modest government buildings, and a bustling waterfront.
Top Things to See and Do in Moroni
- The Old Grand Mosque and the Port: Located next to Moroni’s small fishing harbor, the Old Grand Mosque is the city’s most iconic landmark. Dating back to the 11th century, it showcases classic white Arab-Swahili architecture. Around the harbor, it’s fascinating to watch wooden boats unload massive tuna caught out at sea.
- The New Grand Mosque: Built more recently in a monumental style, the new mosque stands prominently on the city skyline with towering minarets and room for thousands of worshippers.
- Moroni’s Medina: Much like Iconi, the capital’s medina is a maze of narrow alleyways and covered passages. Strolling through, it’s easy to strike up spontaneous conversations with locals—ranging from overseas-educated doctors to shopkeepers happy to practice their French or Spanish.
Practical Tips for Planning Your Trip to Comoros
To help you organize your itinerary and avoid common pitfalls, here are essential practical tips based on my experience in the country:
1. Language and Communication
English is rarely spoken in Comoros. The official languages are Comorian (a Swahili dialect) and French. Knowing basic French is essential for communicating in restaurants, gas stations, hotels, and with local authorities. Downloading an offline translation app before arriving is a lifesaver.
2. Personal Safety
Despite the rough roads, economic struggles, and an autocratic political landscape (the country has experienced over 20 coups since independence), Comoros is extremely safe for walking around. Violent crime rates against foreigners are virtually non-existent. You can walk through the streets of Moroni or Iconi at night with complete peace of mind.
3. Dress Code and Cultural Respect
With a 98% Muslim population, modesty is key. Cover your shoulders and knees when walking through towns and medinas. During Ramadan, extra mindfulness is required: most restaurants close during the day, and eating, drinking, or smoking in public while locals fast is strictly frowned upon.
4. Island Hopping Around the Archipelago
The Union of the Comoros comprises three main islands: Grande Comore, Mohéli, and Anjouan (alongside the disputed island of Mayotte). If you want to explore the other islands, the best option is taking regional flights with Royal Air. Tickets cost around $90 each way and are best purchased directly at their Moroni office, as online booking systems are often unreliable.
Is Visiting the Comoro Islands Worth It?
Traveling through the Comoro Islands is an intense journey filled with sharp contrasts. On one hand, you deal with unpaved roads, fuel shortages, plastic waste, and bureaucratic hurdles. On the other hand, you are greeted with genuine hospitality from incredibly friendly locals, untouched volcanic scenery, historical ruins without crowds, and the rare thrill of exploring one of the world’s last true frontiers.
If you are an experienced traveler seeking rich history, complete safety, and authentic adventures far outside your comfort zone, Comoros will leave an unforgettable mark on your travel journey.
