If you had asked me a few years ago if I could imagine myself sipping saffron tea inside an old Soviet helicopter in the heart of Afghanistan, I probably would have given you a nervous laugh. But here I am. Traveling through Afghanistan isn’t just about getting a passport stamp from one of the world’s most complex destinations; it’s about deconstructing prejudices and understanding what mainstream media—and that “poverty porn” from certain YouTubers—doesn’t show you.
Herat, the “Pearl of Khorasan,” was one of the most intense stops on my two-week journey through the country. Between 15th-century minarets and the surreal hospitality of a people who have seen it all, Herat showed me that Afghanistan is much more than a battlefield. It is a place of resilience, culture, and unexpected smiles. Or watch our full video about Herat:
Arriving in Herat: Afghan Vibes and Security
Upon arriving in Herat, the first thing you notice is the change in atmosphere. While the city was once considered one of the country’s most liberal hubs, the rules of the current government are being more strictly enforced. Nick and I decided to blend in as much as possible. I set aside my Pakol (the round hat from the north), as it’s associated with the Northern Alliance, and adopted the Kandahari style to avoid sideways glances. Nick, of course, always wore a headscarf and extremely modest clothing.
Traveler Tip: If you plan to visit Herat, understand that security is a priority. Avoid filming Taliban checkpoints or military areas. The secret to a smooth trip here is respecting local norms and staying discreet.
Visiting the Minarets of Herat: Standing Giants
We started the day trying to visit the famous Minarets of Herat. They are colossal, built in the 15th century. It is unbelievable that they are still standing, considering the region suffers from constant earthquakes. Unfortunately, the complex was closed for UNESCO renovations, but just observing those structures from the outside makes you feel the weight of Silk Road history.
The Soviet War Museum (Jihad Museum): A Heavy and Necessary Experience
If there is one place that summarizes the country’s recent history, it is the Mazar-e-Jihad Museum. Located on a hilltop, this museum is dedicated to the Mujahideen resistance against the Soviet Union’s invasion in the 1980s.
The external architecture is imposing, surrounded by T-55 tanks, BRT armored vehicles, and MIG-25 fighters. But what is truly impressive—and shocking—lies inside. The museum houses detailed dioramas depicting battles. It is visceral. There are representations of Soviet soldiers being captured and war scenes that spare no detail.
Drinking Tea in a Mi-8 Helicopter
The highlight (and most surreal moment) of the visit was when I was invited by the museum staff to have saffron tea—a Herat specialty—inside a Soviet Mi-8 helicopter.
Afghan hospitality is something that breaks any political barrier. There, surrounded by weaponry and relics of a bloody war, I was greeted with smiles, conversations about Brazilian football, and a lunch shared with the staff. They don’t want to be seen as “villains”; they want the world to know that Afghanistan has beauty and that tourists are welcome.
The Great Mosque of Herat (Jama Masjid)
Built in 1200 by the Ghorid dynasty, the Great Mosque is a spectacle of blue tiles and Islamic architecture. The atmosphere is extremely peaceful. While Nick preferred not to enter to avoid direct contact with armed Taliban members at the door, I was able to explore the inner courtyard. It is a sharp contrast to the chaos of the market right outside, where life pulses and people crowd to buy fabrics and food.
The Gym in Herat: Where Normal Life Happens
Many might think it’s a waste of time to go to the gym while traveling, but that’s where I had the most sincere conversations. Inside the gym, the mood shifts. I saw guys in t-shirts and shorts—something forbidden on the streets—listening to local music and working out just like anywhere else in the world.
There, I met young men who speak impeccable English and dream of a country where their sisters and mothers can also have freedom. They gave me a Muslim prayer necklace as a gift. These are the moments TV doesn’t show: the “bro-camaraderie” that exists beyond the news headlines.
The Dark Side: The Situation of Women and the Economy
We cannot romanticize everything. The reality for women in Herat is harsh. They resist as they can, maintaining small acts of freedom in private spaces, but public space is increasingly restricted.
The economy is also in shambles. Therefore, if you decide to visit, know that your money directly helps the local population. When you buy clothes at a market or pay for a guide, you are injecting resources into families struggling to survive.
Getting Around: From Tuk-Tuks to the Bus to Kandahar
Moving around Herat by Tuk-Tuk is cheap and efficient, though you should be prepared for “extra fee” attempts for foreigners. To leave the city, we took a bus toward Kandahar.
Practical Tip: The bus station in Herat is absolute chaos. People pulling your arm, shouting destinations, and trying to sell tickets. If you want the “VIP” (a slightly less beat-up bus), be prepared to negotiate and have patience. The 8-hour trip to Kandahar is a test of endurance, but essential for anyone wanting to see the “birthplace of the Taliban.”
Conclusion: Is Herat Worth Visiting?
Herat is a city of painful contrasts and stunning beauty. It is a destination for those seeking to understand geopolitics on the ground, away from studio cameras. If you go with an open heart and respect the local culture, you will find a people who are, without a doubt, among the most hospitable on the planet.
Afghanistan is not just a “dangerous country.” It is a country trying to breathe amidst decades of conflict. And Herat is the perfect place to start understanding this Afghan soul.
