Traveling to Syria still feels like a taboo for many, but if you are the type of traveler who seeks destinations that challenge common sense and offer a live lesson in history and geopolitics, Latakia needs to be on your radar. Recently, I had the privilege of exploring this coastal gem, which for decades served as the power base for the Bashar al-Assad family, and what I found was a vibrant country in full rebirth, just one year after the official end of the conflict.
In this article, I’ll share my experience exploring the less obvious side of Syria. From 3,000-year-old sacred caves to practical tips on dealing with a local economy disconnected from the rest of the world, here is everything you need to know to plan your adventure through Latakia.
Or watch my video about Latakia:
The Atmosphere in Latakia: Hope and Reconstruction
Unlike Aleppo, which still bears deep scars from the war, Latakia seems to breathe an air of a “new beginning.” Walking along the boardwalk (Corniche), although the view near the port isn’t the most paradisiacal, the energy is contagious. The goal of this phase of my trip wasn’t just classic tourism—even though incredible places like Saladin’s Castle are nearby—but rather to feel the social pulse.
One of the things that caught my attention most was the visual narrative spread across the city. Government billboards now focus on unity: “One country, one people.” The images show rebels and civilians together, focusing on a free and multicultural Syria. It is a fundamental step toward implementing a lasting peace. And, believe me, in terms of per capita safety, I sometimes feel more at ease here than in certain regions of Brazil.
Hidden Treasures: The Orthodox Church of St. Claire
One of the most magical moments of the trip was visiting the Orthodox Church of St. Claire, located right in the center of Latakia. What makes this place special isn’t just the architecture above ground, but what lies beneath it.
We descended into a cave that, according to locals, is about 3,000 years old. It is a damp space, with water dripping from the ceiling, where people usually go to drink this holy water, especially at Christmas. The cave served as a shelter and place of prayer long before Christianity was established as we know it today. Seeing this historical continuity, where faith spans millennia beneath street level, is enough to give anyone goosebumps.
Practical Tips: The Challenge of Traveling Without a Credit Card
If you plan to visit Syria in 2026, be prepared: the country still lives under sanctions that disconnect it from the global financial system. This means your Visa, Mastercard, or Amex won’t work even in the best shop in town.
1. Cold Cash is King
You must bring US dollars or euros in cash. Currency exchange is done constantly, and since inflation is still a factor, you will end up carrying considerable bundles of 5,000 Syrian pound notes (the largest denominations). A stack representing about 50 dollars can be quite bulky, so bring a money belt or a secure bag.
2. The Good News from Visa
There are rumors and recent reports that Visa is already in negotiations with the local government to reintegrate the country into the payment system. This would be a game-changer for the productivity and efficiency of Syrian trade, but for now, cash is still sovereign.
Syrian Hospitality and the “World’s Best Passport”
I always say: if you want to be well-received anywhere outside the bubble of wealthy countries (USA, Europe, Canada), the Brazilian passport is your greatest asset. In Syria, saying you are from Brazil opens up instant smiles. Football, coffee, and the natural friendliness of Brazilians create an immediate connection that transcends language barriers.
In Latakia, this hospitality translates into small gestures. At the restaurant where we had dinner, we were given typical sweets as a courtesy. We tried one called “Clama,” which reminds us a bit of our brigadeiro, but with a unique texture and resilience. The Syrians are, without a doubt, one of the friendliest peoples I have ever met in my travels around the world.
Transportation: From Latakia to Damascus
To continue the journey toward the capital, Damascus, we chose the Latakia bus station. While there are the famous shared vans, we decided on a large commercial bus, which proved to be an excellent choice.
- Price: The ticket cost about 12 dollars for a journey of approximately 5 hours.
- Comfort: The bus was spacious, even allowing me to work during the trip.
- Safety for Women: We noticed that large buses are preferred by families and women traveling alone, offering a more comfortable environment than the shared vans, which tend to be dominated by a male audience.
The B-Side of Geopolitics: Russians and Abandonment
The bus journey between the cities reveals what the news doesn’t always show. We passed through Tartus, the second-largest city on the coast, where Russia still maintains its strategic naval base. The Russian presence today is much more contained and isolated in bases than during the height of the war, when soldiers were frequently seen in the cafes of Aleppo.
Through the window, the scenery is a mix of natural beauty and abandonment. We saw decommissioned military bases, toppled statues of the old regime, and abandoned gas stations. It is a visual reminder that the war ended not long ago, and the process of cleaning and reconstruction will still take years.
Why Visit Latakia Now?
Latakia is perhaps the most liberal city in Syria today. You will see a vibrant mix of Sunnis, Alawites, Armenians, and Christians living together in harmony. During Christmas, lights and decorated trees take over the streets, and women’s fashion reflects this diversity—it is very common to see women without head coverings dressing in a modern way.
Final Tips for the Traveler:
- No smoking indoors? Forget it. In Syria, the habit of smoking inside establishments is still omnipresent. If you are sensitive to the smell, be prepared.
- Human Connection: Take the chance to talk to the locals. Many Syrians who fled during the war (estimated at 2 million) are starting to return now, bringing with them stories of resilience and a massive desire to rebuild the country.
- Explore the Coast: Syria’s coastline is beautiful. If you have time, visit the resorts that are being reborn and enjoy the Mediterranean Sea from an angle few tourists get to see.
Traveling through Syria in 2026 means challenging the US State Department’s “Level 4” danger rating, but it is also a chance to witness firsthand the birth of a new nation. Latakia is the perfect example that, even after the worst of storms, the sun always returns to shine on the coast.
