What is the first thing that comes to your mind when you think of Syria? For most, it’s images of conflict, rubble, and restricted borders. But what if I told you that there’s a place where the Mediterranean breeze still carries the scent of fresh kebabs, where ancient Roman arches stand tall over bustling shopping streets, and where the hospitality is so intense it feels like being a celebrity? Welcome to Latakia.
I recently ventured into what used to be the crown jewel and the most loyal stronghold of the Assad regime. For decades, Latakia was the privileged escape for the elite. Today, it stands at a fascinating geopolitical crossroads: a city transitioning from a dictator’s hideaway to a liberated, vibrant, and surprisingly liberal coastal hub. If you are looking for a destination that challenges every stereotype you’ve ever held, this is it.
Or watch my full video about Latakia:
The Journey: From Aleppo to the Coast
Traveling to Latakia isn’t your typical road trip. We hopped into a shared van from Aleppo, a city still wearing the scars of heavy bombardment. The contrast was immediate. As we headed toward the coast, the tension seemed to melt away, even if the “security” remained unconventional. In our van, a man sat casually with a Kalashnikov rifle resting on his lap. In post-liberation Syria, this isn’t a sign of danger; it’s just Tuesday.
Pro Travel Tip: When taking shared vans in Syria, space is a luxury. If you’re traveling with backpacks or suitcases, do yourself a favor and buy an extra seat for your luggage. It cost us about $5 and saved us from waiting hours for a less-crowded van. It’s the best “upgrade” you’ll ever buy.
A Warm Brazilian Welcome in the Middle of Syria
One of the most heart-melting moments of this trip happened the moment we checked into our hostel. The owner, upon hearing we were from Brazil, had already hung a massive Brazilian flag in our room. He even found Portuguese copies of the Tintin comics for us to read. This is the Syrian spirit in a nutshell. They aren’t just “friendly”; they are genuinely, deeply moved to see foreigners returning to their country after 14 years of isolation.
Exploring Latakia: A City That Never Saw the Bombs
Unlike Aleppo or Homs, Latakia was largely spared from physical destruction during the civil war. Because it was the heart of the government’s power base, the rebels never made it here, and the regime kept the lights on (mostly). Walking through the streets, you see beautiful middle-class apartment buildings and clean avenues that remind me of 1980s São Paulo.
The Corniche: Mediterranean Vibes
The “Corniche” is the heartbeat of the city. It’s a long calçadão by the sea where locals gather to smoke argile (hookah), drink strong coffee, and watch the sunset over the Mediterranean. Since we visited in winter, it was quieter than usual, but you can feel the potential. In two or three years, I bet we’ll see major international cruise ships docking here. The water is a stunning blue, and the atmosphere is incredibly safe.
Geopolitical Reality: The Russian Footprint
You can’t talk about Latakia without mentioning the geopolitical elephant in the room: Russia. Just south of the city lies Tartus, Russia’s strategic naval base, and nearby is a massive airbase. For years, these were the launchpads for the Russian intervention. Even now, with a new government in place, the Russian presence is a delicate dance of diplomacy. The current Syrian leadership is playing it smart—keeping the bases (and the Russian money) while rebuilding the nation. Seeing military vessels on the horizon while eating a shawarma is a stark reminder of where you are.
Ancient History Meets Modern Revolution
Latakia is a treasure trove for history buffs. We stumbled upon massive Roman arches and columns that wouldn’t look out of place in Rome or Athens. The Greek Orthodox Cathedral of St. George is another must-see, standing as a testament to the city’s large and diverse Christian population.
But the most interesting “monuments” right now are the billboards of the revolution. One year ago, on December 8th, the country was liberated. Everywhere you look, there are posters of rebels hugging children and slogans about a “United Syria.” The energy of a country finding its feet again is infectious.
The “Cultural Experience” of a Syrian Gym
You might think I’m crazy for going to a gym while on vacation in Syria, but it was one of the highlights of the trip. Why? Because that’s where the locals are. In a country where women were often restricted in public spaces under certain regimes or in neighboring countries like Afghanistan, seeing women working out in Latakia was a breath of fresh air.
The gym owner was incredibly welcoming, and within minutes, we were making friends. People would stop their workouts just to say, “Welcome to Syria!” and invite us to their homes for dinner. This wasn’t a “tourist experience”—it was real life.
Tip for Adventurous Souls: If you want to really know a country, go where the locals go. A gym, a barbershop, or a local market will tell you more about the culture than any museum.
Logistics: Electricity and Money
Let’s be real—traveling here still has its challenges. Syria faces a chronic lack of electricity. “Revolving blackouts” are the norm. You’ll hear the constant hum of massive diesel generators on every street corner, and you’ll see thousands of solar panels on every roof.
What to pack:
- Power Banks: You will need them. Your phone is your lifeline for maps and translation, and you can’t always rely on a wall outlet.
- Cash is King: Forget your credit cards. Due to sanctions and the transition, international cards don’t work. Bring US Dollars or Euros (new, crisp bills) and exchange them locally. You’ll end up with a brick of Syrian pounds, so bring a big wallet!
Is Latakia Safe?
I felt safer walking the streets of Latakia at night than I do in many Western cities. The jewelry stores have their doors open, people are out with their kids until late, and there is a profound sense of community. While the “shared van with a guy and a gun” might look scary on camera, the reality on the ground is one of peace and rebuilding.
Why You Should Go Now
Syria is at a unique moment in history. The war is over, the transition is happening, and the people are desperate to reconnect with the world. Right now, there are almost no “tourists,” which means every interaction you have is authentic. You aren’t just a customer; you are a guest.
From the ancient bazaars filled with secondhand treasures to the fancy new fast-food joints that look exactly like the ones in Europe, Latakia is a city of layers. It’s a place where you can feel the weight of the past and the hope of the future in the same breath.
If you’re tired of the same old “safe” destinations and want a trip that will change how you see the world, Latakia is waiting for you. Just remember: bring an extra $5 for your bags in the van, and prepare to be treated like family.
