Traveling to Syria is, without a doubt, one of the most intense experiences a traveler can have. Recently, I landed in Damascus, a city that holds the title of the oldest continuously inhabited capital in the world. But as I walked its streets today, what I found was an overwhelming contrast: on one side, the vibration of a thousand-year-old culture that resists; on the other, the deep scars of a war that looks like something out of a post-apocalyptic movie.
In this article, I’m going to take you through these “two faces” of Damascus and show you that, despite the destruction, there is a “New Syria” pulsing with hope and freedom. Or watch my full video about Damascus on Youtube:
The Reality Shock in the Jobar Neighborhood
My journey began in one of the areas most impacted by the conflict: the neighborhood of Jobar. If you want to understand what war truly does to a nation, this is the place. Upon arrival, the feeling is like being inside a movie set. Buildings that once housed entire families are now concrete skeletons, pulverized by bombings and riddled with bullets.
What struck me most was seeing everyday objects—a piece of clothing, a chandelier hanging by a thread, a twisted water tank—amidst the rubble. There, every apartment represents an interrupted story, a family that fled or that, unfortunately, did not survive.
Safety Tip: If you visit destroyed areas like Jobar, never enter buildings or tunnels without military accompaniment or specialized guides. There are still real risks of landmines and unexploded ordnance. Safety first!
Resilience in the Old City: Where the Heart of Damascus Beats
Moving away from the deafening silence of destruction, I went straight to the pulsing heart of the city: the Bazaar and the Old City. The contrast is immediate. Here, life happens in colors, smells, and sounds.
Damascus is famous for its religious coexistence. It is moving to see a stunning mosque sharing the horizon with a Christian church and, at the right time of year, Christmas lights decorating the streets. Syrians, for the most part, love to celebrate. Regardless of religion, Christmas in Damascus is synonymous with parties, family, and gifts.
The Most Famous Ice Cream in the World?
You cannot pass through Damascus without visiting Bakdash. Located in the heart of the bazaar, this ice cream parlor has been operating since 1895. Their ice cream is a national institution: an elastic pistachio dough topped with whipped cream and condensed milk. It is simply divine and proof that tradition survives any regime.
The “New Syria”: Freedom and Change
The phrase I heard most from locals was: “Now we are a free country.” With recent geopolitical changes and the fall of old power structures, you can feel a greater openness in the air. Before, there was a constant fear of secret police; neighbors didn’t trust neighbors. Today, people are more open, smiling, and eager to welcome foreigners.
I saw five-star hotels being built next to the old city and the Ministry of Tourism investing heavily to bring travelers back. Damascus is preparing for a new era, and being greeted with coffee on every corner is proof of the incomparable hospitality of these people.
Practical Tips for the Traveler in Syria
If you are planning your trip, take note of these golden tips:
- Hospitality: Prepare your stomach! Syrians are extremely generous and will invite you for coffee or tea all the time. Accepting is a sign of respect.
- Dress Code: In Damascus and cities like Latakia, the dress code is quite liberal. You will see women in hijabs and women in Western clothing coexisting peacefully. However, if you go to more conservative areas (like Idlib or rural areas), opt for modest clothing.
- Human Connection: Don’t be afraid to talk. Syrians want to tell their stories and show that the country is much more than the bloodshed shown on the news.
- Internet and Apps: Check the availability of local SIM cards. The infrastructure is being rebuilt, but in many places, the Wi-Fi already works surprisingly well.
A Necessary Contrast
Seeing the destruction is hard, but it is necessary to understand the value of peace. Damascus today is a mosaic. On one side, the rubble of Jobar; on the other, the sparkle in the eyes of those seeing freedom for the first time in decades.
Syria is not a destination for everyone, but for those seeking depth, history, and a lesson in humanity, there is no better place in the world.
